Bihar: Small towns of memories vs small towns of today The well-known Gandhian cliché says India lives in its villages. Many of us believe the opposite, namely it is cities that are the real showpiece of a culture. If I may suggest a compromise, it is really the small towns where you see the true face of a culture. Cities are too official and too put on! Villages are too diffuse – you need to sample a number of them to get the pulse of the region. But it is towns like Chhapra, Buxar, Muzaffarpur, Bhagalpur, and Betiya where you meet true Bihar. I have very fond memories of Motihari, one...